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I don't "do" Danish. But these journals (which are all available as .pdf's) look to have some extremely interesting scholarly work. Check out issue 7, for starters.

Have fun, y'all.

femkes_follies: (Default)
So, here's my next little thought-project:

West Pentamere Costume Collegium - an extended clothing workshop in four sessions

Quarter 1 - Pick a Time and Culture, determine the appropriate garments, draft a pattern

Quarter 2 - Underwear and Foundation Garments, Assembly - techniques covered will depend on student choices and what is necessary to complete them

Quarter 3 - Fit, adjust, and finish. Adding trims, findings, embroidery, and other elements

Quarter 4 - Accessories and milinery - complete the look

Structure - sort of free-floating instructor/student interaction. Less than a class, more than an open "work day." I'm planning for each "quarter" to basically be a day-long session. But not garbed, and not an "event" per se. Pot luck lunch/snacks. BYO sewing machine, we'll try to provide irons and boards, muslin, pads for note-taking, lap tops (hopefully with internet access) for portrait surfing, books for reference, and general notions.

Hopefully everybody will leave session 1 with a complete pattern and yardage requirments, as well as a notions list. The intent is to come to the next section with it at least cut out, possibly partly assembled, depending on the complexity.
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In order to demonstrate (or fail at, we shall see) my Odd Theory of the German Housebook Dress, I first need my dress form functional. Hence, today.

I painted my Christmas tree stand with Brass finish paint. And painted a PVC pole ocean blue.

Now I'm hot and sweaty. The post assembly is together, and sawed off at the appropriate height.

Tomorrow - mount the duct tape dummy on the pole and sculpt a neck for it.

Later (I get home around 9pm tomorrow), pad the dummy. It's about the right size - but not quite. It was done a while ago, and things have.... shifted. But I think it will work as well to pad this one as it will be "squishier" in the squishy places.

In order to do that, I intend to wrap it (at least partially) in muslin, then baste cut outs of cotton batting where it needs to go. I might even get some soft bra cups to pad the bust.

THEN the cover. I have some very nice stretch velvet, with some contrasting ribbon to mark the important lines for draping.

It's a plan to make a duct tape dummy look nice enough to leave in my front room. I might even baste a tulle skirt around her base. ;-)
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[livejournal.com profile] attack_laurel and her apprentice are putting ideas in my head again. ;-)

I wonder if there would be call/desire for a series-styled type of seminars locally on costuming. If I could find a location (my house isn't big enough for ME to sew in, let alone a group!).

Not a real frequent thing - I'm thinking quarterly.

Q1 - Design process, development, and pattern drafting

Q2 - Cutting and Construction

Q3 - Fitting, Hems, and Closures

Q4 - Finish work, decorative elements, and accessories

Thoughts/advice/warnings of insanity ahead?


Oct. 18th, 2009 05:42 pm
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I am coming to accept the fact that a fulltime job, two small children, a long commute - and mostly, the raising of a special needs child - will prevent me from realizing a number of ambitions for the immediate future. I lack the time, energy, and ambition:

- to really bother trying to launch a new career designing fabrics or launching a pattern line

- to pursue the skill set necessary for consideration for the Order of the Laurel

- to construct all the projects running around in my head

- to even get my home into the state I'd like it

But every now and then, something DOES go my way. I went to JoAnn's today to get fabric for a corset. I looked at the cotton duck, but it seemed a little coarse and stiff. So I went wandering through the twills. I happended across a bolt of burgundy herrigbone twill of a weight and pattern very similar to corset coutil. It was labeled $6.99/yd, but rang up $2.50. I nearly went for the rest of the bolt. ;-) 100% cotton, even.

Yeah, me. Now to shop for binding, cable ties, and to draft a pattern. ;-)


Oct. 18th, 2009 12:42 pm
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Second question on the Corset thing....

At what social class do corsets then disappear? Who was too poor to afford one, or worked too hard for it to be practical?
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I'm slow....

I just noticed that RUM is happening in conjunction with the Masque of Courtly Love. Now, I intend to finish one of the Dutch regional gowns for the day. But I suppose I needs something for the Masque, if we opt to stay.

So, what do y'all think I should make?

One of the van Hemessen gowns? (Either the one with the polka-dot cuffs or the brocade skirt and pink undersleeves.)

One of the later period outfits with the bodice and skirt as seen in some of the wedding or skating scenes?

A Cranach gown?

Something Italian/Venetian - since it is a Masque?

Some other German/Swiss/Dutch regional gown?

Something else entirely? Provide pictures!!
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Since I don't normally wash wool at all... Do I pre-wash wool fabric before sewing?

(Crabby baby needs to go to bed. SIlly husband needs to turn of Dr. Horrible's Sing-along blog and do the same)
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I'm thinking of ordering some actual twill tape from William Booth, Draper. Highest on the list are the 1/4 in and 1/2 in Dutch linen.

I also rather like the red wool twill tape (1/2 in). It looks like a good match for the red bodice lacings in some of the Dutch gowns. But I worry that it might stretch throughout the day, necessitating constant retightening.

And while I'm at it, some linen sewing thread.

Anybody have any experience with products or company?
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Prodded here and there I am revisiting the "Project Runway" event idea.

For those just joining us, in a fit of aggravation with the Golden Seamstress event, brought on by sugar shock from Ben & Jerry's and a Project Runway Marathon.... I, with the evil support of others whose names have been changed to protect the innocent, have been contemplating an event that is basically a "Project Runway" challenge, SCA-style. One of the original posts is here.

Recently it's been suggested that the problem of fabric expense on OUR part would be to provide muslin. Then let people make a muslin. Maybe add fabric paint. (Or watered down acrylics).

SO I'm a-noodlin' again. I try to use the gauge of whether I'd be interested in taking part in any given challenge. Gotta say, this one doesn't really excite me. But it has the advantage of being feasible. Hrrrmmmmm..........

I guess it comes down in part to whether you prefer a design challenge or a construction challenge as the primary factor. And whether there are enough people around who are comfortable enough with enough styles to be interested.

Also sort of toying with the idea of a "Don't go Topless" millinery challenge on the side.

So.... I need your thoughts, criticisms, inspirations and ideas. Whaddaya think? (Site not a problem, sponsorship of a local group not a problem. Staffing really not a problem.)

Things to consider:

1. A fun Challenge
2. Can be completed in ~8 hours
3. Not too much up front expense for the organizers
4. Can be built on in successive years - but needs to have enough appeal in year 1 to make it that far.
5. Ideally promotes accurate costuming
6. Doesn't crush anybody's ego
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I preface this by pointing out that it is extremely cold and very windy today. 4 inches of powder so far, and probably another 4 to come - all blowing around and occasionally obscuring the house across the street. It MIGHT be affecting my brain.

On to the so-called thoughts )
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I've been staring at the tiny bad scans (as I still haven't managed actual decent images) and a few things have come to mind.

One - the hemd on most of them appears to be high-necked, back closing. I don't recall having spotted anything similar in other nearby cultures, so I'm-a-gonna have to wing it. On those with much of the neckband showing, it looks to be darned. I might have to borrow a scan of the darning patterns form Alaina.

Two - on at least a couple of the images, the bodice and skirt are clearly different colors. And in these cases the skirt DOES match the color of the section of the underbodice seen under the laces. Yet others have skirts and overbodices that DO match, and contrast with the underbodice. So there are a couple of different constructions, I think.

Three - Some of the overbodices have velvet guards down the sides of the plackets. Which, in my pea brain at least, suggest that they go all the way down the front of the gown and likely the hem, as well as the neck. Which argues against my V-front closing covered by the apron.

Four - there are several types of apron. Some are dark, creased aprons. Some are plain and white. Now, are these work-a-day vs. dress? Or do certain aprons GO with certain ensembles?
femkes_follies: (Default)
It's kind of nice when I hit a day when I don't have many appointments and half of those cancel. ;-) It would give me a complex, but it's a couple of our crazier clients who canceled when they found out I was working today. One of them has, let say, had less than honest dealings with the clinic in the past - I have her number, and she knows it.

Since I wasn't "working" much today - I managed to wander off on my lunch hour and pick up some Hallmark (TM) wrapping paper. Which is conveniently marked off on the back in 1" grid squares. Yippeee!! I picked the stuff with the cool baroque pattern, since it was all the same price anyway. ;-)

Then I got out my copy of The Tudor Tailor, and enlarged the pattern blocks for the basic doublet. I measure out those pieces, split and enlarged them for Darling (though I was going by memory for measurements - hmmm, maybe not so good?), drew them onto my muslin and pieced together a toile. Tonight... a fitting!!!

I also assembled the shirt, but for collar and cuffs. That, I needed an iron for, and hadn't brought it to work with me.

At least I got SOMEWHERE. I also created a paper journal for my Dutch research, tabbed off in sections. Now I can store info as I find it. And then use it to put together my class. Now if I just get better images of those portraits.... *fingers crossed*

In other news, the Muffin's Dance studio suffered a fire over the summer. They're rebuilding - in Fruitport. I don't want to drive that far, and I wasn't that impressed anyway. I've interviewed a new studio, that wants to put her with her own age group, rather than with the 3 year olds. They have around 16 other autistic students. And they've invited us to come observe a class. Hmmm, think I've found a new studio!!
femkes_follies: (Default)
Yeah, I know. I usually have plenty of my own. BUT - speak to me of favorite methods for attatching ruffles to shirt collars and cuffs for late period mens' garb. I've pleated them in before, but they're just not sufficiently obnoxious. What are some other thoughts?
femkes_follies: (Default)
SO, Darling's shirt is cut out (or rather, torn into appropriate rectangles. I never fuss with cutting muslin if I can help it). I've got some of the pieces zig-zagged on the edges. This is a quickie piece, not a show piece. So I'm cheating a little. OK, a lot. Out of thread, and so can't continue until after lunch.

Whilst zig-zagging, which requires very little thought, other things have been running through my head.

Things I do not understand )
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Now that we're contemplating Coronation, we needs duds. So I'd like to make my husband something. Something Dutch-y, since I'm in that millieu at the moment. I have 5 yards of smokey blue cotton velveteen, and 2 yds of a wine and gold brocade. I'm sort of inclined to do venetian trousers or paned ones, and the brocade for a sleeveless doublet. Then maybe a velveteen "coat" - Full bodice, long sleeves, somewhat full skirt.

I've also seen some short sleeved doublets that I kind of like. In fact, I could swear I had a portrait somewhere of a young man in a red doublet that had short sleeves, slashed codpiece, and gold hose. Can't find it now, dang it.

I've got some other thoughts here:

There's this guy, with the interesting closure on the garment. Don't think I have enough brocade for a long sleeved doublet, though. And this looks a little too low class for brocade and velveteen:


The man at the bottom of this map is wearing something that looks like the "coat" style garment I'm thinking of:


Intwesting pants, wot?


Even more interesting pants. I think this gentleman is meant to be middle class:


Is that a cloth belt?


Here is the "coat"/doublet again:

Various men in different outfits:


So what can I dress him in that will look nice, and yet have enough little differences to be "not English" to the practiced eye?
femkes_follies: (Default)
I really do appreciate all the nudges and leg-ups I've been given as I try to expand my research skills. And I'm glad other people are finding some of the info useful/enjoyable. The plan is for a web page coming this fall/winter.

Toward that end, I wonder what advice you all may have in regards to finding period wills that might list clothing items or other fun stuff.

Parte the First - If you know the inventory number of the manuscript, how do you locate it? And what are the chances that, having located it, you might be able to obtain a copy? Most importantly, at a decent rate. The Bodleian has an Album AMicorum that looks interesting, but I'm not up for shelling out $60-70 if I don't know if it will be useful

Parte the Second - How do you systematically search for extant documents, like wills, that may not be obviously costume-related? And while I'm at it, other than the Alcega, Enns, and Milan books, are there other extant tailor's books anyone knows of? Has anybody spent any time at all looking into the Polish one in L.A.?

One other tidbit that's been knocking around in my brain. I noticed, when comparing, that the "Cheese Museum" ladies are all in dark colors, though none in blue. The ladies in Bruyn's Trachtenbuch are VERY often in blue. And a bit of yellow/ochre is not uncommon. Is this just a factor of those colors preferred by the artist? Or are we seeing a difference in dress? The Cheese Ladies appear to be middle class, in what Dad would call "Sunday-go-ta-meetin'" dresses. And dark aprons. The trachtenbuch ladies are sort of all over the map classwise. And there aren't enough Dutch ladies to REALLY get a feel. Is it just a Nord-Holland thing that eschews blue? Or is it a more work-a-day color, perhaps due to the cost of the dye. Which doesn't QUITE add up, as some of the Flemish ladies are in red in the trachtenbuch. And one of the Cheese Ladies was in Dark green, I think. Which is most likely to be weld over indigo or woad.


I'm chasing my tail here, if anybody has any thoughts, I'd be interested.

EDIT: I did find THIS one, which is interesting. I wonder how "German" the German cloak is.

femkes_follies: (Default)
I really do appreciate all the nudges and leg-ups I've been given as I try to expand my research skills. And I'm glad other people are finding some of the info useful/enjoyable. The plan is for a web page coming this fall/winter.

Toward that end, I wonder what advice you all may have in regards to finding period wills that might list clothing items or other fun stuff.

Parte the First - If you know the inventory number of the manuscript, how do you locate it? And what are the chances you can get a fiched copy? And, while I'm at it, what are the chances you can get a copy without a huge price tag? There's an interesting-looking album amicorum at the Bodleian, but it's not part of their currently digitized collection. I'm really not up for a $50-60 slide set without knowing if it's of interest, though.

Parte the Second - How to you conduct a search for extant wills and other interesting documents that are not primarily related to costume? And while I'm shooting for the moon, other than the Alcega, Enns, and Milan tailor's books, are there any others out there anyone has stumbled across?
femkes_follies: (Default)
I'm so over-tired and it so shows. *sigh*

I'm busy pulling the ol' ribbon off the linen, as it requires little in the way of active attention or manual dexterity. And contemplating the ins and outs of a website as my body of research in Dutch costuming grows. (I JUST remembered that I have a friend in grad school in Amsterdam. *g* Maybe she'll find me some goodies. E-mail is somewhat limited for file size. Any bright ideas on how she could send me large files?)

In my defense.... I do like listening to the Lime and Violet knitting podcast. So today's weird idea:

A podcast on historical costuming. Hosted by mineself and Baroness Alaina. With interviews with various costuming afficianados. Cause we know a couple of those. Just wondering how we'd manage to interview the Overseas folks without it costing an arm and a leg. And what sort of hardware and software we'd need. And what I'd have to offer 'Laina to get her to do it. And would there be an audience?
femkes_follies: (Default)
Lookie what _I_ gots:

I found this whilst digging through my stash. There's not a LOT of it, but I wonder if there is enough for that Westphalia jacket, if cut carefully. Maybe with chocolate brown velvet guards and skirt?

I'm thinking I might add a small tapestry piece and a handspun, knitted Monmouth cap to the A&S list. Or maybe knitted gloves - Alaina did you have a pattern? Meanwhile, I'm entertaining myself knitting socks for Mom. She's always cold in the winter, mostly because she has no body fat. She'll either adore them, or thank me politely and stuff them in a drawer. No way to tell which.

Here's the toe of the first sock: )

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