So, I got a new summer romper done for the Muffin to wear to events. Check one item off the list.
Now on to Darling and I. I've got fabric and a toile to do his new cote with a GA style sleeve. So I just have to buckle down and do it. Coordinating hosen just need a hem along the top edge. Yeah, me.
I don't know what I'm going to do for me, since my 14th century chemise finally disintegrated last weekend. And I keep getting distracted. I want something new. I want something Germanic. So I am going to take a leaf out of Wilemyne's book (A very small leaf, since I'm not in her league) and post a bunch of interesting links.
I'm thinking Dutch, mid century. I have 4 yds of blue wool, 1 yd of chinese red wool, and 5 yards of a wool/rayon of a somewhat different red. White linen is easy to come by.
Chemise will be linen, smocked. Especially now that I've got the construction worked out so that they lay so nice. Got all the kinks worked out, and I think Antonia's chemise from Golden Seamstress was the goal. Yippee!
Beyond that, I'm not sure. I want an obnoxious decorated petticoat. I'm thinking green with black velveteen guards that are embroidered with couched silver and some colored thread embroidery. I'm intending to split the front of the gown. I might tie on sleeves. Slashed sleeves?
The inspiration list:
I should also mention that "Textiler Hausrat, Kleidung und Haustextilien von Nurnberg 1500-1650" mentions a variety of decorated petticoats and sumptuary laws against same. I won't quote it here because that's not fair to the wonderful woman who put the effort into translating.
I like this one, but I've come to the conclusion that this is by a follower of van Leyden, rather than van Leyden - and much later in date. I don't think it can be trusted any more than modern romance novels with "victorian" women on the cover.http://cgfa.dotsrc.org/l/p-leyden4.htm
See more discussion and the original BY van Leyden, here:http://www2.students.sbc.edu/gibson02/leyden.html
Wish I had a color image of this one:http://www2.students.sbc.edu/gibson02/card1.jpg
Here is another van Leyden, that we based my red gown on:http://www.jmrw.com/Chess/Tableau_echecs/pages/007.htm
I'd really like something a LITTLE different this time.
Here is another from the circle of van Leyden, with a blue/red color combo I could work with:http://www.artnet.com/artwork/424301610/424283503/circle-of-lucas-van-leyden-man-playing-backgammon-in-a-brothel-circa-1530.html
Another, with wider, fur-lined sleeves on the overgown:http://www.culture.gouv.fr/Wave/image/joconde/0001/m503604_93de2189_v.jpg
I could SWEAR I had an engraving that showed the underarm with a diamond-shaped gusset, and could have sworn it was a van Leyden of Esther. All I can find at the moment is this one:http://search.famsf.org:8080/view.shtml?keywords=%45%73%74%68%65%72&artist=&country=&period=&sort=&start=1&position=8&record=5796
I'd also swear that when we did my red gown, I had an image of another blue gown with red sleeves that had a split skirt and a red petticoat. I'd thought it was another van Leyden, but I can't find it for the life of me. 'Laina?
So I'd like to do a mid-fifteenth century gown with a front closure, split down the skirt with a decorated petticoat. My questions:
What really would constitute Dutch features at this point in time? Can I reasonably include the above? What kind of sleeves? Square neckline or round? White high-necked partlet or dark gollar? Do I need a corset, as described in the Textiler Hauserat? One piece gown or skirt and doublet?