femkes_follies: (Default)
(that does not involve violence)

In this theme, I have re-webbed the fabulous Dutch costume glossary originally provided by Karinne Taylor (with her gracious permission).


I'll clean up the display at some point, but I wanted to make it clear which were her words, and which were mine. I'll likely remove the funny font and just tint the text - when I get a minute.

I'm also going to web her textile and embroidery glossaries, but separately.
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ONE of the front bodice bones in my gown is too long. I'm boggling over the assymetry.


Pick out buttonhole stitching on short side and use longer bones?


Buy shorter bones and take up on longer side at waist?

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I was at JoAnns, looking for something entirely unrelated, and ran across some fabric that I'm now of two minds about.

It's a "Holiday" fabric, of poly taffeta, with a flocked pattern. Normally, something I would avoid like the plague. However, it's a gunmetal color, with black flocking, in a pattern that looks very, very, very close to the skirt in this portrait:

<img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/28/Caterina_van_Hemessen_Portrait_of_a_Woman_with_a_Dog.jpg/458px-Caterina_van_Hemessen_Portrait_of_a_Woman_with_a_Dog.jpg /> Now, this fabric wouldn't drape well. But wouldn't have to, given the style. It's almost an invert of the brocade painted. What do y'all think?
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So - anybody more familiar with the Alcega patterns or the Tailor's Book of Enns have a suggestion on a good cutting diagram for a quilted pettiocoat? Something cone-shaped, to go under a 1/2 circle skirt.


Weird Day

Aug. 31st, 2009 02:53 pm
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I managed to get in to see my Dr. today. You know it's impressive when the quote is "Wow. That is the hypersensitivity reaction from Hell."

So, back on the pred at a more aggressive dose. (*sigh*). Which means I'm experiencing my own personal perpetual summer right now. And an antihistamine. And she gave me a set of the latex-free, powder-free surgical gloves that THEY use. She offered to do a blood screen for latex sensitivity. Which I might go for, later. And siad if this doesn't work, she'll send me to an allergist. Oi.

We changed our reservations at Disney to the Villa at the Boardwalk. I think we might want the microwave, as Rori is still sometimes inclined to want a 3 AM bottle. And Her Highness requires it warm. Microwaves are easier than heating water in the coffee maker and then standing the bottle in hot water. Faster, too.

Still waiting for more info from several places before firming up plans for the Frisian gown. I suspect the brocade is sheer fantasy on the part of the artist. Rather, I think it will be not too very different from the Cleves gowns, but need to figure out the headdress. I wonder if the one that looks like the version from the Anne of Cleves portrait, but black, has any basis in reality? For that matter, has anybody seen a Cleves gown with guards in a color other than black?
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That the peacock-blue (retinal numbing) linen that I've been hoarding wants to be that Frisian gown. Or at least the undergown.

Need more info, though. I'm thinking it's going to be somewhat similar to the Cleves and Koln styles. But that weird headdress.......
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I sense an incipient web update. ;-)

I've found more versions from the other collection of North Holland ladies in regional dress. Heh. One at the Prado, some that belong to the Rijksmuseum, and some in the Edam Museum.

So now it's off to find color images without having to pay 17.95 euros for each one. >:-(
femkes_follies: (Default)
(translated rather roughly)


Many things are expressed in Marker costume and type of cloth: You can, for instance, tell if someone is in mourning. Costume details can indicate particular age or occasion. There is daily dress, Sunday dress, and different clothing for different celebrations. There are different gradations of mourning clothes. And there are differences in summer and winter clothing. On Marks, a lot of attention is paid to clothing. The costume consists of a large number of separate elements. All of the parts are handmade, and brought together into a complete costume with pins. Old family pieces are carefully kept. All garments are individually finished with ties and edges that have a meaning.

As with the rest of the Netherlands, costume here is gradually disappearing. The Marker costume is based on 16th century fasion. The finest expression is made in the costume of the Bride and Groom.

Important ecclesiastic occasions such as christenings, confession of faith, and communion also have associated costume. And it also follows that similar costumes are associated with Christmas, Easter, and Pentecost. In the 16th and 17th century, children began to be dressed by age, rather than as small adults. On Marks, boys wore skirts until their 6th year, but with clear differences from the clothing for little girls. After the age of 6, boys' clothing changed, girls' clothing changed two years later. They did not wear adult clothing yet, but for a year wore a transitional clothing.

Hmmm, it'd be nice to see their evidence for the progression of costume. Especially if they actually have any extant garments or pictorial evidence for the 16th century styles the modern costume is supposedly based in. I wonder if I can get them to elaborate at all.

In other news, I've also contacted Dame Christian to see if she can shed light on anything. And I'm still trying to shake loose copies of those journal articles. Might have to shell out to the NYPL for one. I think the Art Institue of Chicago has the issue of Antiek I need. The others are all limited to the Netherlands, and the National Library has not yet answered my question about cost to scan and e-mail the documents in question. They clearly offer the service, but their price scale is pretty unclear.
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For those of you who follow the occasional fits-and-starts of research I plunk down here from time to time...

I'm thinking of putting together a CD of translated articles, images, and other research tidbits that related to my costuming research. Especially stuff I can't really post out on the web due to copyright type things. Would you be willing to fork over a couple bucks to cover the cost of discs and sleeves for such a thing, if I were to carry them along when I teach a class?

Secondarily contemplating upgrading my lj account so I can do actual polls....
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Stumbled across some just slightly post-period pictures that may help me figure out construction by seeing what the styles were headed to.

link-ities! )
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Just saving off to go spelunking for, later:

And WorldCat is not Being Kind today... )
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I need a better 16th century map of the Netherlands. I'm starting to decide that the fashions in the Kaasmuseum portraits are all from the area around the Zuider Zee, and possibly are unique to that region (or what was that region, when there was a Zuider Zee).

Which makes it a bit difficult to fill in portrait gaps with other info. I've got all these lovely wills - but not a lot of them from that region. More Leiden, Amsterdaam, etc. I should dig back through the scans and see if there's anything from Edam or Volendam.

I think I've just stumbled upon the trap of modern political boundaries. I suspect that national identity was pretty loose in that time and place. And that regions that shared characteristics might have been different. Amsterdam, for instance, seemed to follow more of what I consider a "Flemish" fashion. Hmmmm.........
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I have managed (talking slowly, and being very patient) to walk the local research librarian through the process of setting up an ILL. Maybe. Next time I might see if Collette can do it for me via GVSU.

BUT - if I'm right, I have two book coming that relate to household goods in archival records in the Netherlands. And one is even from Hindeloop, in Friesland! Thanks, Katherine!

I'm going to be a photocopyin', translatin' little fiend, I do think. ;-)

And in the process, I've even managed to find a new Museum to bug. *bwahahahahaha*
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I've picked up a thread on Dutch embroidery from the Isle of Marken. And it's apparent relationship to the Dutch settlers imported to the Isle of Amager by Christian II of Denmark. Apparently the museum there has textiles on exhibit. But - the whole website is in Danish.

*head desk, head desk*

Hopefully the Dutch embroidery expert I contacted will have some good leads for me.

I think I'm on the track of the emergence of embroidery with indigo thread on white linen as a variation on German whitework - especially the very square-dominated variety that evolved into Hebedo. But maybe not. *sigh*


Aug. 17th, 2008 10:49 pm
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[livejournal.com profile] ablackram had mentioned to me some 16th century portraits which have apparent knit shawls. Whilst I wait for her to elucidate, I surfed.

No shawls, but this is an interesting headscarf variant, with the tubes meeting:


It's also the first time I've seen a Dutch woman (from the headdress) in what appears to be a saia. Or at least an open kirtle of some kind.

Love the whitework coif here, and the scallops on the hems of the oversleeves:


Look, a couple of linen shawls:



Nighty night time!
femkes_follies: (Default)
m'dear [livejournal.com profile] ablackram found a lovely embroidered petticoat that was sold via Christie's auction house. Image of the front embroidery only, not the entire garment. Ca. 16th century English. I like it much. I'm trying to decide how much I can extrapolate to Dutch wear.... I've never seen an embroidered petticoat on one. But you don't often get to SEE the petticoat or even bottom of the skirt on middle or upper class women - most full length's I know are working class. *whine*

Oh, for a will or two to translate!! Or time to try to pull some from the Mormon archives. *sigh*

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