If you look very closely at some of the portraits (and if you look closely ENOUGH at the Mary of Burgundy gown), some of them appear to be this technique - lying OVER some pleats and going through others to make a pattern. Which would make more sense especially with metal thread. It allows you to pass through the fabric less, and bend not at all. So less wear and tear on fragile fibers.
It's a personal theory. I'm assembling my evidence and at some point I'll put up an article on that, with a "how to."
no subject
When I say "pattern darning over pleats" I actually mean exactly that. Much like huck weaving, it's forming a pattern in a running stitch:
http://www.bayrose.org/AandS/pattern_darning.html
If you look very closely at some of the portraits (and if you look closely ENOUGH at the Mary of Burgundy gown), some of them appear to be this technique - lying OVER some pleats and going through others to make a pattern. Which would make more sense especially with metal thread. It allows you to pass through the fabric less, and bend not at all. So less wear and tear on fragile fibers.
It's a personal theory. I'm assembling my evidence and at some point I'll put up an article on that, with a "how to."