Sewing in a bit of a white heat - for me

So, the new gown is all cut out. Bodice assembled, lining assembled, skirt assemble. Currently it rests at 160" circumference. I may want to cut that down some. The Skirt Slut has been rubbing off on me, but I don't really think THIS dress should have quite so much. Today: baste the rest of the lining into the bodice. Cartridge pleat the skirt, and sew it on. At some point I need to cut out the sleeve lining and fur cuffs, and decide how to attach them. Then, all I need to do is put on the velvet trip, add hooks and eyes, and hem.

I'm still debating about chemise v. partlet. If I DON'T do it as a chemise, I'll still need some sort of chemise. If I DO, Wilemyne has a good point about it pulling up in the back. It MIGHT not, if I also do a petticoat with a waistband. A corded petticoat might also help with the "bell" shaped silhouette. Hmmm......