I've had a FEW things to do...
Jul. 14th, 2011 04:21 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
femkes_folliesIn between appointments and work and dental work, and so forth.
I went out to my favorite berry farm and picked a flat of raspberries, and 8 lbs combined of white and red currants and gooseberries. I'd wanted more, and intended to get some tart cherries as well - but John had wanted to come along so we had to be home by the time the girls' bus arrived. Most of the raspberries made it into the fridge before they got home and Hoover'd the rest. Rori even insisted on snagging and eating some of the white currants. Which you'd think would be a bit on the sour and seedy side for eating out of hand...
Plus I put together a new web page. I need to pull together the cites yet, but other than that, have at:
http://www.insaneaboutgarb.com/friesianfrockgirl/index.php/textiles/german-costume/pleatwork-shirt-and-chemise-construction
It's a bit discombobulated in places (much like my brain), but hopefully still clear enough to be functional.
I went out to my favorite berry farm and picked a flat of raspberries, and 8 lbs combined of white and red currants and gooseberries. I'd wanted more, and intended to get some tart cherries as well - but John had wanted to come along so we had to be home by the time the girls' bus arrived. Most of the raspberries made it into the fridge before they got home and Hoover'd the rest. Rori even insisted on snagging and eating some of the white currants. Which you'd think would be a bit on the sour and seedy side for eating out of hand...
Plus I put together a new web page. I need to pull together the cites yet, but other than that, have at:
http://www.insaneaboutgarb.com/friesianfrockgirl/index.php/textiles/german-costume/pleatwork-shirt-and-chemise-construction
It's a bit discombobulated in places (much like my brain), but hopefully still clear enough to be functional.
(no subject)
Date: 2011-07-15 03:08 am (UTC)By "pattern darning over pleats" do you mean the technique also known as Italian shirring? The best description of it I've seen is in a (modern) book called _The Art of Manipulating Fabric_ by Colette Wolf. The all-white necklines with what looks like self-colored patterning are what made me think of it.
Basically, you mark a grid of dots on the fabric, exactly as you would to do smocking. And, like smocking, you gather the fabric by stitching at the dots. But you form the decorative pattern by *skipping* certain dots -- in the case of St. Hugo's alb, forming a raised pattern of diamonds on the surface of the tightly gathered fabric.
In this technique, there are no stitches on the fabric _surface_ to hold the pleats -- they are held in place solely by the gathering threads. Nevertheless, the pattern stands out very clearly. I have photos both of details of St. Hugo's alb and of a near-replica someone made using this technique and they look exactly alike to me.
It's an interesting technique because it enables you to cram an incredible amount of fabric into the gathers. However, the actual examples I've seen are all albs (an ecclesiastical garment) from several hundred years earlier than 1600. And I'd be interested in any evidence of it being used on secular garments.
(no subject)
Date: 2011-07-15 11:07 am (UTC)When I say "pattern darning over pleats" I actually mean exactly that. Much like huck weaving, it's forming a pattern in a running stitch:
http://www.bayrose.org/AandS/pattern_darning.html
If you look very closely at some of the portraits (and if you look closely ENOUGH at the Mary of Burgundy gown), some of them appear to be this technique - lying OVER some pleats and going through others to make a pattern. Which would make more sense especially with metal thread. It allows you to pass through the fabric less, and bend not at all. So less wear and tear on fragile fibers.
It's a personal theory. I'm assembling my evidence and at some point I'll put up an article on that, with a "how to."