Musings on Extreem Costuming

[femkes_follies]

I preface this by pointing out that it is extremely cold and very windy today. 4 inches of powder so far, and probably another 4 to come - all blowing around and occasionally obscuring the house across the street. It MIGHT be affecting my brain.



SO whilst I was in the odd twilight between napping and being fully awake, a few of my focus areas from recent days sort of started to meld. I was contemplating the incipient web site, and what I would like it to be. Thinking about those of attack_laurel, realm_of_venus, and pinkdiamond, I was trying to decide what goals I had for my own. Sort of back to that whole "mission statement" theory. Too much "Project Runway" and investigation into the availability of couture sewing classes also started to invade. As well as musing on this new event we're attempting to develop and what we want THAT to be.

Hey, I said I was drifty.

In some ways, I was trying to decide what I want to aim for in my sewing goals. I don't really have the time and patience to spend all my time sewing mundane clothes. Though I do it on occasion. Nor do I have the need or desire to wear higher end clothes - or the evening wear type stuff I gravitate toward if allowed free rein. But garb is another story. Which got me thinking about who's stuff I really respect, whose I don't, and why. I noticed, for instance, at Twelfth Night, that the "Mean Laurel" of previous reference was there in what looked to be a new gown. It was nice, but (unsurprising, given all the factors) looked much more like a "costume" to me, than a gown. And I heard Simone's voice in my head from early on in me SCA career - "There is a definite difference created in the garment by the techniques you use. Modern dressmaker techniques may get you a beautiful costume. Period techniques will build you clothes."

She's right. But what's the difference, really? Back to musing through the various sites, and other folks who's stuff I like. And I've come to the conclusion that what I really want to sink my time into (had I any) amounts to "period couture."

And what, precisely, do I mean by that? Clothes. Fitted, and constructed, with an emphasis on handwork, that lay in a way correct for the garment. Translating fine sewing techniques into period work. Understanding what makes fabric do the things you want it to do. And knowing which more modern techniques can be added to make the garment more attractive and better fitting without creating a "costume-y" effect.

A lofty goal, and one I'm a long, long way from But at least I've gotten straight in my own head what I want. But one thing that may help me is that handwork is extremely hampered by synthetic fabrics. The types of sewing and finishing I want to do almost require natural fibers. I certainly wouldn't try Mistress Isobel's handsewing technique on rayon brocade. I think it would be extremely frustrating.

And all this thinking might be getting me closer to recovering my sewing mojo. Though I'd still like it if I could find some higher end sewing classes locally. I have signed up for E-mail notification when Pattern Review runs their two couture classes online again.

Comments

[pinkdiamond.livejournal.com]

Your aim is pretty much my aim. Lofty as it is to not just use materials and techniques as close as I can get (without grinding to a standstill over finding the "perfect" fabric/colour) but to aim for a blend of ideal fit for then and now. Luckily it is usually one and the same ;)

So when I hear people say "oh such and such a period is easy" I point out my aim is to be the equivalent of a true master of the time. Be it a master tailor of the 16thC or get the fit and beauty of a Worth gown. If it took and takes still much training and effort to learn those skills then doing a really good job will not be easy;)

And I know I don't achieve perfection, I think I'm a little too honest about that. When I say I have shoulder fitting issues I am talking a few mm here, not great big gaps. Except where I have been in a massive hurry and not really gone to much effort;)

[femkederoas.livejournal.com]

It may be an excuse for always falling short of my goal. ;-)

Still, step one is to figure out which techniques to use when. Which will require a fair degree of experimentation. I'm starting with a handsewn kolier, just so it's in small scale for evaluation purposes.

[estela-dufrayse.livejournal.com]

Things that I have learned in the last couple of years...

Take your time. Most important, don't allow yourself to create a deadline. The project will get done when it gets done.

Do everything the period way, don't take shortcuts...see the first thought...

The Laurel Challenge here in the East a few years ago had a really inspiring project, create a doublet completly in the period fashion (method), your only modern convience is an iron. The iron is the most important thing in a sewing room, if I had only one thing to take with me, that would be it. It was a tough challenge. It taught me so much though, both in tailoring and in personal spirit.

Funny thing is, my doublet was sent down with another person to the event, and I'm told I was the only one to complete the challenge.

[femkederoas.livejournal.com]

That's sort of the plan. Though whilst I'm figuring out silhouettes and such, I may do some machine work, too.

I do like my iron. Though I need to invest in a tailor's ham and a few other accessories.

Next project - shrinking in a sleeve head. ;-)

[estela-dufrayse.livejournal.com]

If you can get a copy of "Classic Tailoring Techniques" it's a green book...can't think of the author right now and my copy is at work...There's an excellent lesson on shrinking in a sleeve head to an armhole.

If I can remember, tomorrow I'll write out the lesson and send it to you, if you'd like.

[femkederoas.livejournal.com]

That might be worthwhile. I'd noted the book, but hadn't picked it up yet. I have a copy of "Couture Sewing Techniques" that has a step by step guide, as well. I think it may help setting in sleeves on my new wool gown.

[attack-laurel.livejournal.com]

Um? Am I the "Mean Laurel? *confused*

[femkederoas.livejournal.com]

Oh, HELL no. I was referring to the woman I rambled on about some months ago. She enjoys taking the starch out of newbies, and never seems to have anything good to say about anyone. When you see her at an event, she just looks - unkind is the kindest way I can put it.

I admit to a small amount of schaudenfreude when she snagged some her fancy gold trim. I think her stuff is very "costumey". Which is fine if that's what you're going for. I'd like to shoot for clothing. Which is where you and YOUR stuff came into the discussion. I consider your articles and "extreme costuming" to essentially BE lessons in period haute couture.

(Are you attracted to mentions of yourself like a moth to a flame? *giggle*)

[attack-laurel.livejournal.com]

Well, you *are* on my friend's list - those linked names stand out in a cursory perusal. :)