Goodies to hunt up
Apr. 28th, 2008 11:57 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
femkes_folliesFound a bibliography today of works on Dutch material culture. So I'm saving off some of the most interesting bits here to hunt up and shake down later. ;-)
Baart, Jan M., Wiard Krook, Ab C. Lagerweij, C.A. Ockers, Gerard W. Stouthart, and Monika van der Zwan
1974 "Knopen aan het Hollandse kostum uit de zestiende- en zeventiended eeuw." In Antiek, Volume 9, Number 1, pp. 17-49.
For the study of 16th- and 17th-century costume history in the Netherlands, consideration of small accessories such as buttons is very important. The 159 buttons from Amsterdam excavations are divided into four chronological groups: 1500- 1575, 1575-1600, 1600-1660, and 1660-1700. Only three examples in the first group are known; two are made of pewter, and one is bronze. Small opaque round dark green glass buttons belong to the the second period and have been found in Nova Zembla, Amsterdam, and Haarlem. Illustrates many examples. Written in Dutch.
Baart, Jan M., Wiard Krook, Ab C. Lagerweij, Nina Ockers, Hans van Regteren Altena, Tuuk Stam, Henk Stoepker, Gerard W. Stouthart, and Monika van der Zwan
1977 Opgravingen in Amsterdam. Fibula-Van Dishoeck, Haarlem.
Discussion of previous excavations in Amsterdam with an overview of other urban archeological projects beginning with work in Novgorod and continuing in Gdansk, Budapest, Lübeck, Bergen, Dublin, Winchester, London, Dordrecht, and other cities. Illustrated chapters on leather shoes and other objects, textiles, lead bale seals, spindle whorls, combs, pins, needles, scissors, thimbles, jewelry, buckles, buttons, beads, rings, ceramics, spoons, knives, spigots, keys, locks, graphite pencil holders, spectacles, book clasps, tools, faunal remains, parasites, and much more represent the full range of material culture from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Written in Dutch with English summaries.
Engle, Anita
1990 The Ubiquitous Trade Bead. Readings in Glass History, No. 22. Phoenix Publications, Jerusalem.
Archeological evidence of beadmaking in Amsterdam is appreciably earlier than documents would suggest. Fill deposits in the Waterlooplein dating about 1580 to 1596 contained beads and beadmaking waste.
Groenman-van Waateringe, W.
1975 "Society...Rests on Leather." In Rotterdam Papers, II, A Contribution to Medieval Archeology, pp. 23-34. Museum Boymans-van Beuningen, Rotterdam.
Identifies five types of shoes used in Amsterdam in the 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries. Illustrates with black-and-white photographs and drawings shoe parts and the five types of shoes. Quantitative comparisons of the five types are made with shoes from Oudekerkplein, Krasnapolsky, Warmoesstraat, and de Nes.
Henkes, Harold E.
1994 Glass Without Gloss: Utility Glass From Five Centuries Excavated from the Low Countries, 1300-1800. Rotterdam Papers, 9, A Contribution to Medieval and Post-Medieval Archeology. Coördinatie Commissie van Advies inzake Archeologisch Onderzoek binnen het Ressort Rotterdam, Rotterdam.
Since 1991 significant pieces of glass from the Van Beuningen-de Vriese Collection have been on exhibit in the Museum Boymans-van Beuningen. There are four main categories of glass: drinking vessels, bottles, table glass (dishes and bowls), and various glassware (beads, buttons, rings, ink pots, hour glasses, window glass, etc.). Glass made with wood ash is called waldglas. Colorless, crystalline glass was produced in Venice after about 1450. About 1675 English lead glass was first produced. Lead glass excavated from archeological sites is frequently coated black, depending on the type of soil in which it was buried. Illustrates with black-and-white and color photographs as well as drawings hundreds of examples of excavated glass beakers, tumblers, bowls, berkemeiers, wine glasses, roemers, flute glasses, pitchers, jugs, bottles, goblets, etc., organized according to a detailed typology by the periods 1450 to 1550, 1550 to 1650, 1650 to 1750, and 1750 to ca. 1825. Also illustrates drawings of glass bottle seals and inscriptions and black- and-white and color photographs of beads and small glass buttons excavated in Amsterdam, Antwerp (Kasstraat), Edam, Broek in Waterland, Oud-Beijerland, Oudeschans, and Delft. A hairnet made of beads is from the castle of IJsselmonde at Rotterdam. Written in Dutch and in English.
ter Molen, J.R., A.P.E. Ruempol, and Alexandra G.A. van Dongen, eds.
1986 Huisraad van een molenaarsweduwe: Gebruiksvoorpen uit ween 16de-eeuwse boedelinventaris. Museum Boymans-van Beuningen, Rotterdam/De Bataafsche Leeuw, Amsterdam.
Catalogue of objects related to objects mentioned in the inventory of the estate of Oude Maria Dircksdochter. Illustrates from excavations in Rotterdam a Raeren stoneware jug of ca. 1580, another one dated 1570, a Raeren mug from about 1525, a 16th-century Raeren jug with a pewter lid, a knife with a brass and horn handle, a 16th-century pewter plate, a pewter salt cellar with folding lid, and 16th- century stone spindle whorls. Also illustrates from exacavations in Reimerswaal a stoneware jug made in Cologne about 1550, a 16th-century earthenware milk jug, an earthenware skillet made about 1500, and a three-legged pipkin of about 1575 to 1600. Also illustrates from excavations in Delft a stoneware jug made at Raeren about 1600, another stoneware jug made at Cologne about 1550, two plain 16th-century glass beakers, a majolica plate made in 1580, a plain earthenware plate made about 1525, a wooden plate made about 1600, an earthenware bowl of about 1500, and a wood and brass candle stick. Also illustrates from excavations in Leiden a pewter tankard from the 16th century, and another from about 1600. Also illustrates from Amsterdam excavations a pair of brass spigots from about 1600, a two- tined fork with bone handle of about 1600, and a pair of brass or bronze decorated key rings of about 1575. Also illustrates a pewter spoon of about 1550 found at Leede. Also illustrates a decorated majolica plate of about 1575 and a 16th-century needle case and thimble found at Middelburg. Also illustrates an earthenware firecover of about 1600 found at Edam. Also illustrates a small 16th-century lace bobbin found at Utrecht. Also illustrates a 16th-century bone comb found at Haarlem. Also illustrates a 16th-century pewter ear spoon and a brass tongue scraper found at Oud Krabbendijke. Written in Dutch.
van Regteren Altena, H.H., R. Brandt, and H.J. Zantkuyl
1976 Amsterdam in de Put:opgravingen rond het Damrak, een archeologische bijdrage aan de vroegste geschiedenis van Amsterdam. Amsterdams Historisch Museum, Kalverstraat 92, Amsterdam.
One of the greatest problems in the medieval city was the risk of fire. After the fire of 1452 structures were required to have brick-covered side walls. New houses had to have roofs of slate or of tiles. By the end of the 16th century wooden façades were also prohibited. Time after time the city government had to proclaim that brick side walls were compulsory. Because a brick house is heavier, the foundation was regulated by law. A firm foundation was necessary; a foundation wall of brick was started on rows of driven small posts. On this deep wall rested the house wall. Such a foundation was costly. After a fire a lot with its old foundation was frequently offered for sale. Illustrates with a black-and-white photograph the excavated foundation walls of a 16th-century brick house. During the excavations evidence of the occupation of the house was found in the rear yard area. There were many privies including indoor privies. For a long time not every house had such facilities, and three houses had to share one privy. Documents established how a privy was to be kept clean and empty. The contents were emptied into barges that discharged their loads into the Y. The excavations revealed broken ceramic remains of skillets, pots, and small jugs and plates. There were also leather artifacts and faunal remains including shells of shellfish. Other finds were an iron key, glassware, children's toys, and coins. Written in Dutch
Baart, Jan M., Wiard Krook, Ab C. Lagerweij, C.A. Ockers, Gerard W. Stouthart, and Monika van der Zwan
1974 "Knopen aan het Hollandse kostum uit de zestiende- en zeventiended eeuw." In Antiek, Volume 9, Number 1, pp. 17-49.
For the study of 16th- and 17th-century costume history in the Netherlands, consideration of small accessories such as buttons is very important. The 159 buttons from Amsterdam excavations are divided into four chronological groups: 1500- 1575, 1575-1600, 1600-1660, and 1660-1700. Only three examples in the first group are known; two are made of pewter, and one is bronze. Small opaque round dark green glass buttons belong to the the second period and have been found in Nova Zembla, Amsterdam, and Haarlem. Illustrates many examples. Written in Dutch.
Baart, Jan M., Wiard Krook, Ab C. Lagerweij, Nina Ockers, Hans van Regteren Altena, Tuuk Stam, Henk Stoepker, Gerard W. Stouthart, and Monika van der Zwan
1977 Opgravingen in Amsterdam. Fibula-Van Dishoeck, Haarlem.
Discussion of previous excavations in Amsterdam with an overview of other urban archeological projects beginning with work in Novgorod and continuing in Gdansk, Budapest, Lübeck, Bergen, Dublin, Winchester, London, Dordrecht, and other cities. Illustrated chapters on leather shoes and other objects, textiles, lead bale seals, spindle whorls, combs, pins, needles, scissors, thimbles, jewelry, buckles, buttons, beads, rings, ceramics, spoons, knives, spigots, keys, locks, graphite pencil holders, spectacles, book clasps, tools, faunal remains, parasites, and much more represent the full range of material culture from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Written in Dutch with English summaries.
Engle, Anita
1990 The Ubiquitous Trade Bead. Readings in Glass History, No. 22. Phoenix Publications, Jerusalem.
Archeological evidence of beadmaking in Amsterdam is appreciably earlier than documents would suggest. Fill deposits in the Waterlooplein dating about 1580 to 1596 contained beads and beadmaking waste.
Groenman-van Waateringe, W.
1975 "Society...Rests on Leather." In Rotterdam Papers, II, A Contribution to Medieval Archeology, pp. 23-34. Museum Boymans-van Beuningen, Rotterdam.
Identifies five types of shoes used in Amsterdam in the 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries. Illustrates with black-and-white photographs and drawings shoe parts and the five types of shoes. Quantitative comparisons of the five types are made with shoes from Oudekerkplein, Krasnapolsky, Warmoesstraat, and de Nes.
Henkes, Harold E.
1994 Glass Without Gloss: Utility Glass From Five Centuries Excavated from the Low Countries, 1300-1800. Rotterdam Papers, 9, A Contribution to Medieval and Post-Medieval Archeology. Coördinatie Commissie van Advies inzake Archeologisch Onderzoek binnen het Ressort Rotterdam, Rotterdam.
Since 1991 significant pieces of glass from the Van Beuningen-de Vriese Collection have been on exhibit in the Museum Boymans-van Beuningen. There are four main categories of glass: drinking vessels, bottles, table glass (dishes and bowls), and various glassware (beads, buttons, rings, ink pots, hour glasses, window glass, etc.). Glass made with wood ash is called waldglas. Colorless, crystalline glass was produced in Venice after about 1450. About 1675 English lead glass was first produced. Lead glass excavated from archeological sites is frequently coated black, depending on the type of soil in which it was buried. Illustrates with black-and-white and color photographs as well as drawings hundreds of examples of excavated glass beakers, tumblers, bowls, berkemeiers, wine glasses, roemers, flute glasses, pitchers, jugs, bottles, goblets, etc., organized according to a detailed typology by the periods 1450 to 1550, 1550 to 1650, 1650 to 1750, and 1750 to ca. 1825. Also illustrates drawings of glass bottle seals and inscriptions and black- and-white and color photographs of beads and small glass buttons excavated in Amsterdam, Antwerp (Kasstraat), Edam, Broek in Waterland, Oud-Beijerland, Oudeschans, and Delft. A hairnet made of beads is from the castle of IJsselmonde at Rotterdam. Written in Dutch and in English.
ter Molen, J.R., A.P.E. Ruempol, and Alexandra G.A. van Dongen, eds.
1986 Huisraad van een molenaarsweduwe: Gebruiksvoorpen uit ween 16de-eeuwse boedelinventaris. Museum Boymans-van Beuningen, Rotterdam/De Bataafsche Leeuw, Amsterdam.
Catalogue of objects related to objects mentioned in the inventory of the estate of Oude Maria Dircksdochter. Illustrates from excavations in Rotterdam a Raeren stoneware jug of ca. 1580, another one dated 1570, a Raeren mug from about 1525, a 16th-century Raeren jug with a pewter lid, a knife with a brass and horn handle, a 16th-century pewter plate, a pewter salt cellar with folding lid, and 16th- century stone spindle whorls. Also illustrates from exacavations in Reimerswaal a stoneware jug made in Cologne about 1550, a 16th-century earthenware milk jug, an earthenware skillet made about 1500, and a three-legged pipkin of about 1575 to 1600. Also illustrates from excavations in Delft a stoneware jug made at Raeren about 1600, another stoneware jug made at Cologne about 1550, two plain 16th-century glass beakers, a majolica plate made in 1580, a plain earthenware plate made about 1525, a wooden plate made about 1600, an earthenware bowl of about 1500, and a wood and brass candle stick. Also illustrates from excavations in Leiden a pewter tankard from the 16th century, and another from about 1600. Also illustrates from Amsterdam excavations a pair of brass spigots from about 1600, a two- tined fork with bone handle of about 1600, and a pair of brass or bronze decorated key rings of about 1575. Also illustrates a pewter spoon of about 1550 found at Leede. Also illustrates a decorated majolica plate of about 1575 and a 16th-century needle case and thimble found at Middelburg. Also illustrates an earthenware firecover of about 1600 found at Edam. Also illustrates a small 16th-century lace bobbin found at Utrecht. Also illustrates a 16th-century bone comb found at Haarlem. Also illustrates a 16th-century pewter ear spoon and a brass tongue scraper found at Oud Krabbendijke. Written in Dutch.
van Regteren Altena, H.H., R. Brandt, and H.J. Zantkuyl
1976 Amsterdam in de Put:opgravingen rond het Damrak, een archeologische bijdrage aan de vroegste geschiedenis van Amsterdam. Amsterdams Historisch Museum, Kalverstraat 92, Amsterdam.
One of the greatest problems in the medieval city was the risk of fire. After the fire of 1452 structures were required to have brick-covered side walls. New houses had to have roofs of slate or of tiles. By the end of the 16th century wooden façades were also prohibited. Time after time the city government had to proclaim that brick side walls were compulsory. Because a brick house is heavier, the foundation was regulated by law. A firm foundation was necessary; a foundation wall of brick was started on rows of driven small posts. On this deep wall rested the house wall. Such a foundation was costly. After a fire a lot with its old foundation was frequently offered for sale. Illustrates with a black-and-white photograph the excavated foundation walls of a 16th-century brick house. During the excavations evidence of the occupation of the house was found in the rear yard area. There were many privies including indoor privies. For a long time not every house had such facilities, and three houses had to share one privy. Documents established how a privy was to be kept clean and empty. The contents were emptied into barges that discharged their loads into the Y. The excavations revealed broken ceramic remains of skillets, pots, and small jugs and plates. There were also leather artifacts and faunal remains including shells of shellfish. Other finds were an iron key, glassware, children's toys, and coins. Written in Dutch
![[identity profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/openid.png){kind=small}
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-28 06:06 pm (UTC)and gives me ideas of more things to look up and read about
gee... thanks ;P
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-28 08:36 pm (UTC);-) Glad you enjoyed. I may have to go play with WorldCat and try to decide what looks MOST interesting.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-29 03:35 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-29 07:59 pm (UTC)Are you looking for a specific area/town? "Dutch" is a little bit of a misnomer at that time, since there was little in the sense of a national identity. Most things are more clearly defined by town or province.
If you'd like, I can put you on my f'list. There are some locked posts, mostly due to copyright issues, etc. that you might find interesting. One is an artcile on Regional dress in Enkhuizen that I translated from the orignial Dutch.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-29 09:06 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-30 06:33 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-30 08:26 pm (UTC)http://www.northerncostume.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/the-four-elements-earth-1569.jpg
The first image is the supposed placket front. The second one is pretty much exactly what the chick in the first picture is wearing. I see jackets laced up over a kirtle, but I could be wrong there too. I also have a picture I am like 95% sure is a kirtle.
The only other time I have ever seen the idea of a placket front is in Daily Life in Holland
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-30 11:06 pm (UTC)I can check with Mistress Katherine. Sometimes it's in the terminology - if there's another name for that sort of thing, searching with THAT term might turn something up.
In all honesty, I don't really read that as a separate piece. I think the outer garment is laced over a kirtle in this case. In both instances, if you look very closely, you can see the side edge of an overskirt that implies that (for instance) the red piece and red skirt are one piece. Or, potentially a pair of bodies that laces up the back with a separate petticoat pointed on. That seems more likely for some of the other garments I've seen in Noord-Holland where the skirt is much fuller. The nearly ubiquitous apron makes it darned hard to tell.
I'll see what I can hunt up for you!
(no subject)
Date: 2008-04-30 11:11 pm (UTC)Yes, that's the theory I read. I have a picture where I am 100% certain the woman is wearing a kirtle. The red is a little weird, it was deemed it was a placket because of the shadows, or somesuch.
I don't read it as a separate piece either, but I really want to cover all my bases so I can just take saying that "Well, someone said it could be a placket front but. . . "out of my handout.
Thanks for the help! I really have no idea where or how to start when it comes to primary source documents.
(no subject)
Date: 2008-05-07 08:00 pm (UTC)As for the placket, I'm still maundering. I'm kind of wondering if it's a pinned-over cover for the laces in the front of the undergown, as done on the Henrician gown in Tudor Tailor. Though the Flemish gowns in these pictures lack the fullness of skirt of either the Tudor gowns or the ladies in the Kaasmuseum. I might give it a try, though I think I'll wait until I get better pics of the Cheese Ladies.
That help at all?
Did you ever find the goodies?
Date: 2008-07-31 03:20 am (UTC)Baart, Jan M., Wiard Krook, Ab C. Lagerweij, C.A. Ockers, Gerard W. Stouthart, and Monika van der Zwan 1974 "Knopen aan het Hollandse kostum uit de zestiende- en zeventiended eeuw." In Antiek, Volume 9, Number 1, pp. 17-49. OCLC 12847178
Only one copy - New York State Library, Shares Proc Center Albany, NY 12230
Baart, Jan M., Wiard Krook, Ab C. Lagerweij, Nina Ockers, Hans van Regteren Altena, Tuuk Stam, Henk Stoepker, Gerard W. Stouthart, and Monika van der Zwan 1977 Opgravingen in Amsterdam. Fibula-Van Dishoeck, Haarlem. ISBN 9022839966
44 copies, closest two - (for me)
University of Kansas Lawrence, KS 66045 United States
Univ. of Wisconsin-Madison General Library System Madison, WI 53706 United States
Engle, Anita 1990 The Ubiquitous Trade Bead. Readings in Glass History, No. 22. Phoenix Publications, Jerusalem. OCLC 22264587
28 copies - 2 in Kansas/MO and 2 in Michigan. Ooh, in English!
Groenman-van Waateringe, W. 1975 "Society...Rests on Leather." In Rotterdam Papers, II, A Contribution to Medieval Archeology, pp. 23-34. Museum Boymans-van Beuningen, Rotterdam. OCLC 43149906
4 libraries, Oxford and 3 in the Netherlands.
Henkes, Harold E. 1994 Glass Without Gloss: Utility Glass From Five Centuries Excavated from the Low Countries, 1300-1800. Rotterdam Papers, 9, A Contribution to Medieval and Post-Medieval Archeology. Coördinatie Commissie van Advies inzake Archeologisch Onderzoek binnen het Ressort Rotterdam, Rotterdam.
OCLC 61969319 in Germany OCLC 193604689 at METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART New York, NY 10028
(Ok, that one's weird - the dutch version is at the Met, and the english version is in Germany?)
And one more listing OCLC 33233382 ISBN9080211818 Which has 29 copies and can be found at the Saint Louis Art Museum St Louis, MO 63110
It's hard when the WorldCat listings are inconsistent.
ter Molen, J.R., A.P.E. Ruempol, and Alexandra G.A. van Dongen, eds. 1986 Huisraad van een molenaarsweduwe: Gebruiksvoorpen uit ween 16de-eeuwse boedelinventaris. Museum Boymans-van Beuningen, Rotterdam/De Bataafsche Leeuw, Amsterdam. ISBN:9067071242
74 copies, including 2 in MI, and 1 in KS
van Regteren Altena, H.H., R. Brandt, and H.J. Zantkuyl 1976 Amsterdam in de Put:opgravingen rond het Damrak, een archeologische bijdrage aan de vroegste geschiedenis van Amsterdam. Amsterdams Historisch Museum, Kalverstraat 92, Amsterdam. OCLC:27143722 18 copies plus OCLC:2640099 3 copies.
You know, you should make a worldcat list of books you've seen-want-have. While running these references down, I came across a list focused on glass technology, and now I've got more things to seek out for me. You could help other people, as well as helping yourself keep track of what you've seen in your research.
Re: Did you ever find the goodies?
Date: 2008-07-31 10:01 pm (UTC)I probably should, at that. This was sort of an aside for me as well. *g* I was looking for wills/inventories to sort through for costuming info. Which I really haven't found yet. And I've lacked the gumption to start pulling them via the Mormon's archive center.
Just wanted to say
Date: 2008-08-03 10:51 pm (UTC)thank you
Date: 2008-09-24 09:21 pm (UTC)